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Can You Buy Younger Looking Skin?
PREVENTION JULY 1998

The answer may be yes if you understand the science behind skin-care products and choose them wisely.

Ingredients like collagen and elastin may sound impressive, but they don't rejuvenate your skin. Why? Their too-large molecules can't penetrate the skin.

Skin Renewal Regimen: Since all of these products work in different ways, you might want to use more than one to get the full range of benefits, says Sheldon Pinnell, MD, professor of dermatology at Duke University Medical Center in Durham, NC. Use retinoic acid or alpha or beta hydroxy products at night, since they can increase sun sensitivity. Use a vitamin C product in the morning to reap its sun- protective benefits. Whatever products you choose, remember to also use a sunscreen.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS RATING WHY TIPS CAUTIONS

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) (includes glycolic, citric, and lactic acids-found naturally in sugar cane, citrus fruits, and sour milk) most effective Strong scientific evidence for wrinkle reversal. Exfoliates and renews cells and evens skin tone. Glycolic acid penetrates skin best because its molecules are smallest. May cause sun sensitivity. If you have sensitive skin, start with a 5% concentration before working up to 8 or 10% AHAs.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) (salicylic acid, a component of aspirin) effective Exfoliates and renews cells. Plumps out finer wrinkles like the AHAs. Good for acne-prone or sensitive skin. (Lower, less irritating concentrations are used because BHAs penetrate so well.) May cause sun sensitivity.

Vitamin A derivatives (Retinoids: retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl acetate) (Prescription tretinoin, such as Retin-A and Renova, prevents and reverses sun damage.) might help Not enough data yet to know if all the OTC spinoffs of tretnoin offer significant benefits. However, one study shows that retinol at 0.25% has the exfoliating, skin strengthening effect of prescription Retin-A at 0.025%. Must be formulated correctly to be "active" (effective) Can cause sun sensitivity. May cause skin irritation for some.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and derivatives (ascorbyl palmitate magnesium, ascorbyl phosphate) might help An antioxidant said to prevent sun damage by neutralizing free radicals. There are no studies to prove it reverses wrinkles, but the anecdotal evidence looks good. Must be formulated correctly to be "active" (effective). Look for L-ascorbic acid in at least- 10%
concentration, un-ionized, with a pH less than 4. The liquid form can be drying for mature skin. If needed, use with a simple moisturizer. (Apply the vita-min C first, so it can penetrate.)

Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) and derivatives (tocopherol acetate, tocophery linoleate) probably not There's debate over its permeability. It won't reverse wrinkles, but is an antioxidant with slight
sunscreen effect, especially with vitamin C. Makes a good moisturizer; despite claims, won't speed wound healing or erase scars. There aren't many true vitamin E creams. Tocopherol acetate, the most common form, is only a derivative, not an antioxidant. Can cause allergic reactions for some.

Quick Tip

"Be patient with skin-care products. Expect to see results no sooner than two months," says Howard Doneky, MD, staff dermatologist at the University of Rochester, NY.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS	RATING	WHY	TIPS	CAUTIONS
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) (includes glycolic, citric, and lactic acids-found naturally in sugar cane, citrus fruits, and sour milk)	most effective	Strong scientific evidence for wrinkle reversal. Exfoliates and renews cells and evens skin tone.	Glycolic acid penetrates skin best because its molecules are smallest.	May cause sun sensitivity. If you have sensitive skin, start with a 5% concentration before working up to 8 or 10% AHAs.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) (salicylic acid, a component of aspirin)	effective	Exfoliates and renews cells. Plumps out finer wrinkles like the AHAs.	Good for acne-prone or sensitive skin. (Lower, less irritating concentrations are used because BHAs penetrate so well.)	May cause sun sensitivity.
Vitamin A derivatives (Retinoids: retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl acetate) (Prescription tretinoin, such as Retin-A and Renova, prevents and reverses sun damage.)	might help	Not enough data yet to know if all the OTC spinoffs of tretnoin offer significant benefits. However, one study shows that retinol at 0.25% has the exfoliating, skin strengthening effect of prescription Retin-A at 0.025%.	Must be formulated correctly to be "active" (effective)	Can cause sun sensitivity. May cause skin irritation for some.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and derivatives (ascorbyl palmitate magnesium, ascorbyl phosphate)	might help	An antioxidant said to prevent sun damage by neutralizing free radicals. There are no studies to prove it reverses wrinkles, but the anecdotal evidence looks good.	Must be formulated correctly to be "active" (effective). Look for L-ascorbic acid in at least- 10% concentration, un-ionized, with a pH less than 4.	The liquid form can be drying for mature skin. If needed, use with a simple moisturizer. (Apply the vita-min C first, so it can penetrate.)
Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) and derivatives (tocopherol acetate, tocophery linoleate)	probably not	There's debate over its permeability. It won't reverse wrinkles, but is an antioxidant with slight sunscreen effect, especially with vitamin C.	Makes a good moisturizer; despite claims, won't speed wound healing or erase scars. There aren't many true vitamin E creams. Tocopherol acetate, the most common form, is only a derivative, not an antioxidant.	Can cause allergic reactions for some.